Day 1
26 April 2020
0225 GMT
This afternoon we left Horta after having been on the quarantine dock for 2 nights. It was strange to see Peter’s Cafe across the marina but not being able to go there.
A big fence on the dock marked the ‘end of our line’.
Groceries, diesel and even Peter’s Gin was delivered to the fence by people wearing white suits and masks.
I couldn’t help but wonder if that attire was to protect them or us. Our skipper, Alex and I have been in quarantine for 36 days now so surely we cannot be a danger to anyone..
Just 2 nights on the docks and the whole watch rhythm flew out of the window. I went to bed at 1800 GMT and have been wide awake looking at the ceiling until it was time to get up for my watch at 0000. I most likely will sleep very well after 0400.
Honestly, I can’t wait.
Day 2
27 April 2020
0200 GMT
After an uneventful graveyard shift and a good couple of hours sleep I got up at 0950 to go to the ‘gym’.
I put some extra layers on because the temperature is dropping faster than a brick from the sky (so it feels). Imagine my surprise when I came outside to find the sun shining and almost no wind (the fact that we have been on engine almost since we left Horta should have given the wind part away). I ended up doing my gym session in a tank top and shorts!
Alex and I took the most out of the nice weather because we knew it would be short lived. We expect today to have been the last day that the aft (sun) deck was open as we could see the low pressure area surround is during the day. In the afternoon the wind slowly started to pick up but not before I served everyone risotto with spinach and seafood for dinner..
On my watch now I have seen gusts up to 40 knots and I had to go outside a couple of times to put extra reefs in (read: pressed the buttons to make the sails smaller). We are currently using the baby genoa (2 reefs) and the mizzen (mainsail on the second mast, with more or less 2 reefs). The wind is on our beam and it is erratic at times. It literally is on/off; we are set up for the gusts but when the wind drops a bit we are like a tennis ball in a tumble dryer due to the swell and the irregular waves on top.
But hey, we are going in a straight line towards our destination.
Day 3
28 April 2020
0111 GMT
Eventhough we are sailing on a superyacht it stopped being comfortable some 20 hours ago.
The swell picked up, the waves picked up and the wind is continuously above 30 knots gusting to 40.
It is pitch black outside.
The wind is still on our beam, as are the waves and eventhough I tried changing the course towards a broad(er) reach I have not been able to make the ride any smoother.
Sleep is nearly impossible. For one the noise, not outside but inside the boat. Having so much stuff on board has its disadvantages. Cuttlery, alcohol storage (it is making me thirsty!), the dishwasher and boxes with god-knows-what stored under my bed. Another disadvantages of a ‘superyacht’ is that the beds are too big, you can’t adjust the angle of the bed and you can’t wedge yourself in smugly. Oh how I miss the bunks on the Volvo 70 right now.
On the other hand, I am sitting inside, protected from smashing waves and the (feels to me) icy wind. So I am not complaining (too loudly).
Another 24 hours and then we get a little breather before the next low hits us. You got to love crossings this early in the season..
Day 4
29 April 2020
0014GMT
“How did you sleep?” The skip asks me as I come up to take over the watch from him. “I could totally do withsome sleep..” I reply. “My mom always says: even if you don’t sleep, you do rest when in bed, well it definately does not feel like it!”
“These conditions are ridiculous” we conclude. “I just saw 49.7 knots of wind speed” he says. In the mean time a wave picks us up and my feet are literally lifted from the floor as I hang on for dear life.
For the last 24 hours the ‘normal’ wind is somewhere around 35 knots gusting to well over 45. The waves have increased to 6 – 7 meters and even now in the dark with a weak light from the (half) moon I can see the wall of water coming towards us, and again, and again, and again…
We expect another 6 – 8 hours of this and then the weather should calm down a bit. Lets hope the waves will too so I can make a nice dinner later today to celebrate our survival.
We are breaking record after record though. First we were aiming at doing 200nm in 24 hours, right now we are disappointed when it is anywhere below 220.
It is a fast trip, that is for sure!
Day 5
30 April 2020
0005 GMT
After writing yesterdays blog a rogue wave in combination with a 44 knots gust almost send me flying from my chair and generated so much pressure that the mizzen’s softhackle of the sheet broke resulting in a big bang when the boom hit the bimini (over and over again) .. Within seconds part of the bimini posts came loose and I had to wake up skip to assist me catching the flying block and controlling the damage..
So what a difference a day makes. From (literally) screaming along with 35 – 49 knots of wind to being on engine with 5 knots of true windspeed with almost no hope for improvement. So we are back to doing our hourly engine check during our watch.
At least I could cook a decent dinner 🙂
And we had time enough to do the repairs on the mizzen and she been ready to use again ever since.
Day 6
1 May 2020
0115 GMT
I am bored. There is no wind, it is foggy and we are treated with this drizzling rain that soakes you within minutes. In all fairness, we had a couple of hours sailing today but the wind veered so much that we almost ended up in Bordeaux rather than heading for the English Channel.
After a total of 42 days on this yacht I am ready to be at our destination and go home.
4 more days.. 4 more days (most likely) on engine..
I’ll just have another kit kat, a fresh baked muffin (thanks Alex!), a cracker with peanutbutter and ohh.. is that dark chocolate?? Good thing it is easy for me to stay off the English crisps..
Day 7
2 May 2020
0150 GMT
A couple of hours after my graveyard shift last night the wind picked up and we were able to continue under sail. On starboard tack this time, so rather than hugging the hull (to which I really got accustomed to) I now ended up curling up against my lee cloth.
Living on a steep angle again. Oh does this old lady (again: the boat!) like to heel over..
We have been eating the miles away at 6-8 knots of speed and this afternoon at 3pm we actually hit the soundings meaning that it is shallow enough for the depth gauge to give a reading. We had a small party to celebrate this mile stone. .. Land is getting closer.
At this very moment we are on the verge of entering the English channel and the fact that we have about 6 fishing vessels in our vicinity marks the start of more vigilant watches.
Unfortunately I just had to start the engine, not because of lack of wind but because of the wind angle which made us head towards Brest rather than into the channel. And yes, on any leasurly trip you would cut your losses, do a couple of gybes and get to your destination (maybe a little bit later than planned). But this a delivery. We sail when we can but start the engine when we need to.
If we keep up the current speed we have about 3 days to go till we reach IJmuiden. Eventhough I know that in a week or so I will be longing for the ocean again, for now I can’t wait to get there and see my family and friends (if at all possible with the current Covid restrictions)..
And I really need to get away from all the sugary goodies on this boat. This trip I have once again proven to myself that I really have the backbone of a shrimp when talking ‘chocolate’..
Day 8
3 May 2020
The mainsail is up and the engine is on ever since my last blog. It’s foggy, there is hardly any wind and it is very busy!
At this moment we are right off the coast of Cherbourg and we have 12 tankers within 15nm of us. That is, on our side of the Traffic Separation Scheme. On the other side the AIS is showing another 14 freighters. And then ofcourse you have the random fishing vessels that may or may not show up on AIS.
It humbles me that along with all these 300ft+ ships we are cruising along sharing the same waters.
It must be one of those nights.
Because we are on engine we have to go down into the engine room every hour to complete the log about tempereature, throttle and pitch to name a few.
It actually makes you realise how fast an hour passes but I have to say; it is much less stressful to go down below in the middel of the ocean than down here in the English Channel with all the traffic.
44 days down, 2 to go..
After all this time living side by side on the boat we have gotten very aware of eachothers rhythm, habits and perks. Occasionally Alex and I have a good laugh about that: “you know when this and this? Well, then you always do that..”
Don’t tell her but I might even miss her after we have gone our seperate ways in a couple of days..
Damn, it really is one of those nights..
Day 9
4 May 2020
0110 GMT
So one moment we are gently plotting along making way towards IJmuiden and the next moment the wind picks up, turns ENE and since 3pm we are bashing against the waves (and every 6 hours: tide) at the incredible speed of 2-4 knots. Our ETA has just been postponed by 1, possibly 2 days..
We couldn’t hold our course (and speed) in the Traffic Lane so we asked permission to leave and try some sailing just outside it. It did not help much though.. granted, speed went up but not even close to into the right direction. So it has come down to chosing between 2 evils and for now it is nose to wind, no sails and as many revs as we feel comfortable with.
Day 10
5 May 2020
0220 GMT
Pffff… 23 knots on the nose in the Channel is 10 times worse than 49 knots in the Atlantic. The last 36 hours have been horrible. The waves have been bashing over the deck with such force that at some point I was afraid that it would break the windows. This really is not funny anymore.
We have been playing with different angles to the wind, a little bit of sail, a lot and none, but all to no avail. Speed on the ground stayed between 1 – 3 knots.
We could do with some sleep though..
The English Channel is showing its moody side …
Day 11
6 May 2020
Finally, finally, finally we made it to IJmuiden 🇳🇱
The wind started dropping this morning just before my 0000-0400 watch ended which resulted in a great couple of hours (well deserved) sleep.
It was a boring last bit as we had to do everything on engine, but honestly, right now I do not care anymore.
It was a great adventure and experience. 47 days on a superyacht as delivery crew and chef, who would have tought..
Alex, thank you for your friendship, cookies, chocolate and patience in teaching me. I feel very confident with the sextant now.
I am sure we will join forces again on another job and remember:
In the mean time it is a (near) full moon, the same view when we left Grenada exactly a month ago.
Looks like we have come full circle 🌎
Cheers!